Frequently Asked Questions

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Our first response would be: why not?

Our second response would be: we've got more experience than most, we're hyper-local and dedicated to you, not just our bottom line, and our products, services, and results speak for themselves. 

And also, why not?

High-temperature: These machines use very hot water (150- 165°F for washing, 180°F for rinsing) to sanitize dishes. They do not require chemical sanitizing but may need a booster heater to achieve the proper final rinse temperature.

Low-temperature: These machines use lower water temperatures (120-140°F) for washing and rinsing, relying on chemical sanitizers to disinfect dishes. They are more energy-efficient but require a constant supply of chemicals and may affect the longevity of some dishware.

With so many types and brands on the market, selecting the right commercial dishwasher depends on your kitchen’s size, volume, and specific needs. There’s a commercial dishwasher suited to every operation. 

Undercounter Smaller, with capacities for 20-30 racks per hour, suitable for smaller operations or bars.

Door-type features a hood opening on three sides and offers higher capacity, with 30-55 racks per hour, ideal for medium-sized restaurants.

Conveyor dishwashers are designed for high-volume operations, capable of continuously processing a large number of racks or dishes.

Glasswashers are specialized for washing glassware efficiently and safely. They use lower water pressure to protect fragile glass.

Pre-scrape and Pre-Rinse: Before loading, scrape off all large food particles to prevent clogs in the machine’s filter and spray arm jets.

Load Properly: Use the appropriate dish rack, leaving space between items for proper water circulation. Arrange plates and bowls carefully to prevent nesting.

Chemicals: Ensure the correct chemicals are connected to the machine and in the proper locations. Verify that chemicals are present in the jugs and that the chemical line is fully extended into the chemical jug.

Monitor: For low-temp machines, use test strips to ensure the sanitizer level is in the required range.

Clean filters, screens, and guides: Remove and clean the filter and scrap basket to prevent clogs and odors. Clean the door guides to ensure the door can close securely. 

Wipe down surfaces: Clean the interior, exterior, gaskets, and seals to remove food buildup.

Drain the machine: At the end of the day, drain and empty the tank and leave the door ajar to allow it to air dry.

Check chemical levels: Ensure detergent, rinse, and sanitizer (for low-temp) dispensers are full and working correctly.

Loading: Ensure that the racks are not overcrowded and that tall items or utensils are not blocking the spray arms from spinning. Proper loading allows water to circulate freely.

Filters and screens: Food debris, grease, and grime can clog filters and screens, causing them to send dirty water back onto your dishes. Remove and clean them daily.

Spray arms and jets: Check the wash and rinse arms to ensure they can rotate freely and that the nozzles are not clogged. Disassemble the arms and use a thin wire brush to clear any debris.

Detergent and chemicals: Confirm that the chemical dispensers are full and dispensing correctly.

This could be a sign of hard water issues or improper chemical dosing. Hard water contains minerals that leave a residue. You may need to have a water softener installed or have the dishwasher delimed.

Streaks on glassware are usually caused by hard water. Minerals like calcium and magnesium can leave spots if wash and rinse tanks aren’t properly maintained, spray arm jets or filters are blocked, or temperatures are too high. To fix this, install a water softener, clean filters and spray arm jets regularly, check wash and rinse temperatures, and ensure detergent and rinse are connected properly.

It’s usually due to a blockage in the system. 

Clogged drain: A blockage in the drain filter, drain hose, or plumbing system is the most frequent cause.

Kinked or blocked hose: Check for any kinks in the drain hose and ensure it is properly routed.

Faulty drain pump: If the pump fails, it will not be able to push water out of the machine.

Power Supply: Make sure the dishwasher is plugged in correctly. Check the circuit breaker to see if it has been tripped. 

Door latch: The machine will not start if the door is not completely closed and latched. Check the latch for debris and ensure it is working properly.

Door switch: If the door latch is working correctly but the machine still won’t start, the internal door switch may be faulty.

Control panel: A malfunction in the control board or timer can prevent the dishwasher from starting.

Door guides: The door guides can become brittle, worn, or cracked over time, causing water to leak. Additionally, if food is built up on them, preventing a proper seal, water can leak out the doors.

Cracked hoses: Check all hoses for cracks, loose fittings, or signs of deterioration.

Clogged drains: If the drain or scrap trap is blocked or full of debris, water can back up and spill over the edges.

Limescale buildup: Hard water can cause mineral deposits to corrode and damage boiler or rinse tanks, leading to leaks.

High-temperature machine: Health codes require high-temp machines to reach a minimum rinse temperature to sanitize. Use a heat-sensitive test strip to verify that the surface temperature of the dishes reaches at least 160°F. If temperatures are low, the booster heater may be malfunctioning.

Low-temperature machine: Sanitization depends on chemical levels. Use a chemical test kit to check that the sanitizer is being dispensed at the correct concentration during the final rinse cycle.

This typically points to poor pre-scraping and pre-rinsing practices before loading the dishes. Train your employees to properly pre-scrape and pre-rinse dishes to remove large food particles that can clog filters and spray arms jets.

The dishwasher is not a garbage disposal. A bad smell is often caused by a dirty or clogged filter, where food particles decompose. Other common causes include food residue on the interior walls, mold or mildew on the door gasket, a clogged drain, or hard water buildup that traps debris and promotes bacterial growth. To eliminate odors, clean the filter regularly, wipe down the interior, and scrub the door gasket. Deliming the dishwasher on a regular basis can help deodorize the machine.

While basic troubleshooting can often resolve many issues, some problems require the expertise of a trained technician. You should call us if:

  • You have checked the basics (power, drainage, and cleaning) and the problem persists.
  • The dishwasher is making unusual or excessive noise.
  • You suspect a faulty electrical component, motor, or control board.
  • A leak is coming from an internal component that requires disassembly to fix.
  • You smell something burning or see smoke coming from somewhere on the machine.

A missing or bent spray arm end cap can cause water to rush out of the spray arm and through the openings on the machine.

This is a common issue that can be be troubleshot with a few steps:

1. Check the circuit breaker.

2. Push the roller on the door switch plunger on the front door of the machine.

3. Look to see if a rack is sitting against the table limit switch on the clean table.

4.Check the master switch to see if it will operate.

If none of those work, a service call may be required.

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